The little village of Casa Branca is situated in the valley of the Parque de Serra do Rola Moça, a mountainous region of semi-tropical forest in the state of Minas Gerais.This state of Southern Brazil owes its wealth to its mineral resources, mainly gold, iron ore and precious stones. Casa Branca was founded in the 17th century by Portuguese settlers seeking for gold. They left in their wake a considerable cultural heritage of customs and religious rites as well as a hybrid population descending from slaves and settlers. Casa Branca lies thirty-odd kilometres from Belo Horizonte (capital of the state of Minas Gerais), one of Brazil’s main industrial centres. The village and its surroundings have gradually become a favourite “weekend” tourist destination. Today, this trend represents a threat to the environment and to the three hundred inhabitants cultural identity. Until the end of the seventies, Casa Branca had a population of less than two hundred. At that time the majority of village land was owned by ten to twenty families. Since then, successive economic crises have forced the owners to sell their lands in order to survive and by 1999 over 5,600 plots had been sold. Previously, the inhabitants were farmers, stockbreeders or masons. Today they are turning to new types of employment in response to the demand for labour in the building and tourist sectors.

“Folia dos Santos Reis” is one of the most widespread religious events in rural Brazil. It evokes the journey of the Three Wise Men to Bethlehem. On December 24th musicians set out singing from the village church and visit each house. Each time they stop, a clown scratches the door with a spur: the group then enters singing and executing certain mimed dances. Next, they share a meal here or receive a present there, in thanks for the singing and for having brought the Three Wise Men to the dwelling. Still singing, the group leaves. These alms-raising songs continue through to the 6th of January.

According to historians, “La folia” was an element of primitive Christian ceremonies. It appeared in Brazil at the beginning of the 16th century, with the arrival of the Portuguese. The Jesuits used it to evangelize the Indians, but it was subsequently prohibited by the Church. “La folia” then moved beyond the confines of the Church and spread through the streets and countryside.
According to popular belief, “La folia” is a celebration reserved for the poor and has existed since before the birth of Jesus. Participants, therefore, are traditionally farmers and workers from the least privileged social classes.

“La folia” at Casa Branca includes twenty-odd singers and singer/musicians. The latter play the guitar, the pandeiro (tambourine with bells), the accordion, the cavaquinho (string instrument of Portuguese origin, smaller than a guitar) and the drum. The flags, images, medieval clown disguises, caps and sticks make the groups highly colourful. Originally, the songs were inspired by the Gospels, but today they speak of love, of everyday life, the difficulties and joys each person encounters.

“La Folia de Reis” is a testimony to the difficult survival of a ritual. It is an amazing choral system with the hierarchical organisation of “repentistas” (improvisers), musician troubadours and singers - a mixture of traditional welcoming and of popular religious devotion.